Tuesday, April 30, 2013

Scrapbooking Tips - How to Make Photo Frames

Scrapbooking Tips - How to Make Photo Frames





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Not those regular picture frames! That would take too long to paste on a page of your scrapbook. But, creating photo frames out paper can give a really cute look onto your scrapbook. Photo frames are a more upgraded version of a photo mat. Instead of simply having background, you get a cute frame.

The first scrapbooking tip would be to trace the photo onto the back of your chosen frame. You should have two patterned papers for frames, one pattern for the overlapping frame, the other, should be a simpler pattern or a plain piece of paper colored with crayons - this is only used to give your picture a framed look at the sides. Once you're done tracing, use slicers or cutters to cut through the pattern paper. Paste the photo first onto the page, followed by acetate or a strong piece of plastic. This will serve as the glass cover.

Next, paste the simpler patterned paper on the side borders, overlapping a thin piece of the photo. If you'd like a decorated look for the inside frame, paste embellishments such as small flowers at the side of the simple patterned paper and make sure it's halfway out the border so you can overlap half with the main frame.

Last scrapbooking tip is to paste the main frame over the first border and the photo. Overlap all frames and maybe even photo with huge decorative pieces for an outer framing look. Make sure that all decorative pieces and patterned papers would look well together. Finish off the layout with a huge title overlapping the photo and frame.


Scrapbooking Tips - How to Make Photo Frames


Photography Tips



Photography Tips

Scrapbooking Tips - How to Make Photo Frames



Scrapbooking Tips - How to Make Photo Frames
Scrapbooking Tips - How to Make Photo Frames



Photography Tips

Saturday, April 27, 2013

Basic Photography Tips - How to Improve Your Photo Shoot With Your Compact Digital Camera

Basic Photography Tips - How to Improve Your Photo Shoot With Your Compact Digital Camera





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When one intends to explore the world of digital photography and possibly make it a lucrative career in the future, the first thing to be accomplished is to understand the basics of photography. You must able have a reliable compact digital camera in your possession that would prove to be your most valuable tool when you are out shooting or capturing pictures. Here we have some basic photography tips that would hopefully guide you well in your bid to become a successful photographer in the future:

1) Once you own a camera, go through its manual, and understand exactly what every switch, button, control and item on the menu does to your photographs! Even if you are unable to master everything, ensure that you know how to turn on the flash when necessary, are able to switch between different environment settings and know how to zoom in and out.

2) Start taking pictures by switching your camera's mode to automatic setting at first, and once you are more familiar with the settings and features of your camera, you should be able to alter it in accordance to your needs and preferences

3) Set the camera to its highest resolution whenever you can so that you would get better quality pictures that would prove to be more convenient to alter digitally when you are processing them. If you do not have much memory to play with, it is advisable to obtain a bigger memory card as photos with higher resolutions tend to be bigger in terms of image size

4) Be constantly on the go, and ensure that you carry your camera everywhere you go! Many people tend to miss good memorable shots because they tend to stay indoors a lot, and many forget to bring their cameras when they are out traveling.

5) Avoid red-eye distraction if possible, this can be accomplished by switching on your red-eye reduction feature (most digital cameras come with this options nowadays)

6) Use a tripod whenever you can, as it would reduce the chances of your picture blurring due to shaking hands or other distractions - if possible, get yourself a carbon-made tripod

7) And remember, practice makes perfect, thus work on your photography skills whenever you are able to!

Once you fully understand all these basic tips, you would be able to take high-quality photographs, regardless of whether they are family photographs, portrait photographs, or even scenery shots! Good luck!


Basic Photography Tips - How to Improve Your Photo Shoot With Your Compact Digital Camera


Photography Tips



Photography Tips

Basic Photography Tips - How to Improve Your Photo Shoot With Your Compact Digital Camera



Basic Photography Tips - How to Improve Your Photo Shoot With Your Compact Digital Camera
Basic Photography Tips - How to Improve Your Photo Shoot With Your Compact Digital Camera



Photography Tips

Wednesday, April 24, 2013

Make Up Tips for Photography

Make Up Tips for Photography





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Photography make up is slightly different from daily make up applications. Here are some pointers -

Lighting:

Use natural lighting - for example, near a big window with lights coming in If photography is taking place outdoors, do so around 4pm to 5pm, when the sun is about to set. Soft lighting makes a person better

Preparing the face:

Wash, exfoliate, tone and moisturize your face before applying make up Oil control is very important. If you can, use oil free formulated products Keep hair away from the face To reduce puffy eyes, use Preparation H

Foundation:

Choose a thicker formulated foundation rather than the sheers ones that are used in daily applications so that all blemishes are covered easily Blend foundation from chin to neck so that they are of the same colour

Powder:
Use lots of it, and reapply between shots, to create a mat finish look

Concealer:

2 shades lighter than skin to cover blemishes and dark spots; apply before foundation application

Contouring:Contour cheeks and eyes to create a sculpted look Use foundation in a shade that is 2 to 3 shades darker than normal skin tone

Eyes:Highlight eyebrow bones using light shadow to create lively eyes Avoid eyeshadow that is too frosty or shimmery - it'll appear shiny Apply eyeliner with precision Use waterproof mascara Overall application needs to be than normal make up

Lips:Use lipstick and liner of same colour, in a shade darker than natural lip colour


Make Up Tips for Photography


Photography Tips



Photography Tips

Make Up Tips for Photography



Make Up Tips for Photography
Make Up Tips for Photography



Photography Tips

Friday, April 19, 2013

'Train Photography', my photos for 2013 so far.

'Train Photography', my photos for 2013 so far.





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'Train Photography', my photos for 2013 so far.



Photo's I have taken of the railway. Most photos were taken in 2013. Almost all photos were taken in the Adelaide Hills, and all were taken in Australia!

'Train Photography', my photos for 2013 so far.

'Train Photography', my photos for 2013 so far.


'Train Photography', my photos for 2013 so far.

'Train Photography', my photos for 2013 so far.

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Photography Tips - Understanding Aperture Settings





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Most tips relating to exposure advocate the use of the aperture priority mode, and with good reason. The Aperture Priority Mode allows you to control the shutter speed through the aperture settings, which are responsible for crucial picture dynamics that include depth of field, motion blur and freezing action.

Understanding how the aperture and aperture priority work, will help you as a photographer gain control over exposure and these critical picture dynamics.

Setting the camera mode dial to aperture priority puts the camera into a semi automatic mode, which means that you will have to take care of other crucial setting such as white balance, metering and ISO. In this mode the shutter automatically changes to compensate for the different aperture settings.

Aperture and F-Numbers
The aperture is basically a hole behind the lens which allows the light to pass through the lens to the image sensor located within the body of the DSLR. The aperture uses numbers (F-Stops) corresponding to the different sizes of the aperture (or hole if you like).

The F-Stop is derived from the mathematical relationship between the aperture diameter and the focal length of the lens.

Typical ranges
A typical range of F-Numbers or F-Stops is:
F 3.5, F4, F4.5, F5, F5.6, F6.3, F7.1, F8, F9, F10, F11, F13, F14, F16, F18, F20, F22

These numbers are the range available when using the 18-105mm AF-S NIKKOR lens, with the lens set to 18mm.When set to the other extreme of the lens (105mm) the F-Stop range changes from F5.6 to F36, and so it will change for each focal length. For example at 50mm the range will be from F5 to F32.

The increment value between F-Stops can be changed on many DSLR cameras. Typically the light is halved or doubled for each F-Stop increment.

Picture dynamics
So what's the big deal about using Aperture Priority? In most cases the beginner accepts the exposure set by the camera's choice of shutter and aperture combinations. This still gives a good picture, but does not take into account the look of the picture in terms of depth of field, movement and frozen frames. The aperture setting can be used to control all these dynamics.

Given factors
A wide Aperture (small F-Number):
- Narrow depth of field
- Fast shutter speed

A small aperture (High F-Number)
- Wide depth of field
- Slow shutter speed

Taking into account the factors above one can see how the three picture dynamics can be controlled.

- Depth of field. This is the area in front and behind the subject that is in focus. A small F-Number results in a very narrow depth of field, so the background and often the foreground is out of focus. This is great for portrait photography where the attention is focused on the subject. Because the shutter speed is normally high in this mode it is easier to shoot without blurring the picture.

- Movement through blur. Using a high f-number will force a slow shutter speed when the camera is set to aperture priority. This is great when you want your picture to show movement. A typical scenario is when shooting a waterfall. The water is blurred through movement while the rest of the picture remains sharp. A tripod is essential for this type of shot. The camera can be panned swiftly to follow a moving subject, keeping the subject sharp but blurring the background.

- Freezing the subject. This of course depends on the shot you are attempting. Anytime you want to avoid blurry pictures, a faster shutter will become your best friend. The snag here is that the higher the shutter speed you use the more light you will need. A high F-Number will give a fast shutter speed when in aperture priority mode.

When you need a really fast shutter, keep an eye on the warning light in your viewfinder which indicates the shutter speed is cutting off too much light and the aperture range for that lens has been exceeded. This is a common problem.

A good example is when photographing birds. The best time of day to shoot is often when the light is low. A necessary compromise in these poor lighting conditions is to increase the ISO. Why compromise? Well too high an ISO introduces noise into the picture, influenced largely by the quality of camera model. This can be a nuisance when enlarging photos in post production.

Increasing the ISO increases the shutter speed, so one need to make a choice between capturing a great photo that is hard to repeat, or risk introducing noise.

Practice
Practice in manual mode and play with the shutter, aperture and ISO. Some cameras offer an anti blur feature which in essence is automatically creating the fastest shutter speed with the right combinations of the three (aperture, shutter and ISO).

Next time you are photographing the kids indoors, try getting the fastest shutter speed before resorting to your flash, which sometimes is the only way to avoid blurry shots.

Flexible solution
In summary, aperture priority mode offers the most flexible exposure control when striving to create certain picture dynamics on demand. Experience will teach you when to use another mode such as Shutter Priority, Program Mode or Manual. The ultimate goal is to go manual and take full control of exposure and other features.


Photography Tips - Understanding Aperture Settings


Photography Tips



Photography Tips

Photography Tips - Understanding Aperture Settings



Photography Tips - Understanding Aperture Settings
Photography Tips - Understanding Aperture Settings



Photography Tips


Photo's I have taken of the railway. Most photos were taken in 2013. Almost all photos were taken in the Adelaide Hills, and all were taken in Australia!




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Tuesday, April 16, 2013

Deconstructing, Part V Ep 114: Photo on the Go with Joe McNally: Adorama Photography TV

Deconstructing, Part V Ep 114: Photo on the Go with Joe McNally: Adorama Photography TV





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Deconstructing, Part V Ep 114: Photo on the Go with Joe McNally: Adorama Photography TV



http://www.adorama.com Adorama Photography TV Presents Photo on the Go with Joe McNally. Join Joe as he deconstructs the lighting set-up from a shoot for Nat...

Deconstructing, Part V Ep 114: Photo on the Go with Joe McNally: Adorama Photography TV

Deconstructing, Part V Ep 114: Photo on the Go with Joe McNally: Adorama Photography TV


Deconstructing, Part V Ep 114: Photo on the Go with Joe McNally: Adorama Photography TV

Deconstructing, Part V Ep 114: Photo on the Go with Joe McNally: Adorama Photography TV

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Tips on Framing Black & White Photography





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Black and white photographs have remained popular since their inception roughly 150 years ago. The ability of black and white images to fit many decorating styles has contributed to their increased popularity. As such, people have become more open to alternative, more sophisticated framing designs for these items.

How to best frame a black and white photograph is a subject for much conjecture. Plain and simple to take nothing from the art, or more ornate to complement the subject matter? Add colour in the frame design to help draw the eye to the picture, or stick with a rigid two-tone approach to ensure dramatic elegance?

So where does that leave us? Well to be honest somewhere in the middle. The fact is that there is as much variety in black and white photography as in any other art form. Think of it this way, if we asked everyone to dress in the same way the look would suit a few but be terrible for most. However, there are some simple rules and techniques you should keep in mind when framing black and white photographs.

- Some framers believe a pristine white mount is best for all black and white images, on the basis that it does not detract from the picture itself. However, for pictures with a white focal point, a pristine white mount can be too bright and will compete with the image for attention.

- Another common mistake is to try to 'lighten' dark art by surrounding it with a light mount. In reality, a light mount border causes the dark colours in the photo to look even darker.

- Mounts should be black, white or grey. Any other colour adds an element that isn't present in the picture. If you have a customer who insists on a colourful mount, a common suggestion is to go for a white mat with a small accent of colour as a second mount. However, this accent actually pulls the eye away from the photo. A better solution is to use the colour as the predominant top mount and place the accent of black or grey below it to work as a transition into the photo. With all that colour surrounding the photo it isolates the image, in affect, drawing attention to it.

- When it comes to the moulding, consider the era, style and location of the photograph. As in framing any art piece, each frame must enhance the style and mood of the photograph itself. Many framers believe you should stick to a narrow, basic frame for black and white photographs, but this may not co-ordinate with the subject of the photo. For example, a picture of an ornate piece of architecture may look better with a more classical moulding design.

- Elongation is often a good treatment for portrait photographs, images with vertical subjects or strong vertical lines. By making the top and bottom borders wider, it dramatises all those vertical elements.

- A mountslip which matches the moulding can create a strong, classic outline around the photograph. This helps pull the viewer's attention in from the frame to focus on the picture. Mountslips can also help enhance the customised appearance of the design, adding character and perceived value.

When any item is framed properly the frame design should add a sense of value to the finished product. So a good frame design will help a mediocre shot look good and an unimaginative framing job will bring even the best picture to the level of a cheap poster.

Remember, just because the subject lacks colour doesn't mean the framing should lack imagination.

For more help or to discuss any of the points raised above please do not hesitate to contact us or visit us in person.


Tips on Framing Black & White Photography


Photography Tips



Photography Tips

Tips on Framing Black & White Photography



Tips on Framing Black & White Photography
Tips on Framing Black & White Photography



Photography Tips


http://www.adorama.com Adorama Photography TV Presents Photo on the Go with Joe McNally. Join Joe as he deconstructs the lighting set-up from a shoot for Nat...




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Sunday, April 14, 2013

Photography

Photography





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Photography





Photography

Photography


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Baby Photography - Lighting Tips





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In baby photography one of the biggest challenges is lighting.

Lighting babies and children is something that comes with experience. As with lighting any other subject, the most important thing is that you become familiar with a few basic setups, and then adjust the setup to suit the particular situation and subject.

When it comes to diffusing the light you have a choice of brollies or softboxes. My preference, in the studio is the softbox. When I traveled out customers home I used translucent shoot-through brollies. One of the main advantages with the softbox is that it directs all of the light forward. With the shoot-through brolly some of the light escapes from the edges and bounces back towards the camera. With this you need to be careful of flare so always shoot some test shots first and remember to use a lens hood.

Translucent brollies also give a nice effect if you shoot the flashgun back into them and reflect it back out toward the subject. To keep the lighting soft you do need to get in very close if you use this method. The reason for this is that you increase the distance of the light from flash to subject, and as you know a distant light causes a harsher shadow.

Reflective brollies are less useful than the translucent shoot-through style; they are too harsh for most types of portrait work. That said if you are looking for a harder light they are fine, but I can't imagine a parent being happy with a harshly lit shot of their baby! Reflective brollies are however good for lighting backgrounds.

The main reason for keeping lighting simple for baby photography is their volatility! For example you could be ready to take the shot and the baby crawls out of 'position'...if your lights are 'clinically positioned' and very directional the baby will quickly move out of the shooting zone.

If you keep your lighting basic, for example two large soft boxes, then it gives you more latitude for movement.

A relatively flat, even light generally gives the most pleasing results for baby photography. As a starting point I like to place a main light, either reflected from an umbrella or diffused through a softbox, between 35 and 45 degrees to one side of the subject, then use a similarly diffused fill light at 1/3 to ½ less exposure beside the camera as a fill light. I then adjust the lights to suit the subject's features in a flattering way.

An extremely fine-featured child often benefits by making the light "harder".

To achieve this, move the main light closer to the 45 degree position. Conversely, a child with large, sharp features or skin blemishes, such as a rash, will benefit if you move the light closer to the 35 degree position (i.e back round nearer the camera) and lessen the power difference between the main and fill lights for a softer look.

When using a harder, more dramatic light on children, it is important not to over-do it. When seeking a more formal, dramatic effect, I usually shift the main light to between 45 and 55 degrees. The fill light should remain near the camera. You may want to lower the power of the fill light to deepen the shadow areas, but with baby photography I generally find that it's best to keep the ratio within one stop.


Baby Photography - Lighting Tips


Photography Tips



Photography Tips

Baby Photography - Lighting Tips



Baby Photography - Lighting Tips
Baby Photography - Lighting Tips



Photography Tips






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Friday, April 12, 2013

Photo Tips For Setting Up a Home Photography Studio

Photo Tips For Setting Up a Home Photography Studio





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INTRODUCTION

Studio portraiture is very specialized and has always been the "elite" photographer's playground. While it is true that high end studio photography requires a great amount of study, practice and mentoring; it is also equally true that an interested amateur with some decent equipment can take very nice family and portrait photos with some practice.

BASIC STUDIO EQUIPMENT

You are going to need a few key elements for some basic studio photography. First is some studio lighting. Three strobe lights will likely give you as much studio lighting as you will need to get by in most lighting situations. Some studio setups have as many as 6 lights, reflectors and various diffusers and use high end 600-800 Watt per Second strobes that cost thousands of dollars. Don't worry! You can likely find a good starter set with 300-350 WPS lights in places like eBay, Henry's or your local camera store. You should prepare to spend in the neighbourhood of about 00.00 to get strobes, stands, soft boxes, umbrellas and maybe a reflector. You can also consider a wireless strobe trigger although you can likely get away with the cord that will come with the lights. Most "package" systems come with a carrying case as well so the will save your equipment from any damage.

Next item(s) will be backdrops. You may want to consider a number of things. Good quality Muslin backdrops can be found for very reasonable money on eBay. I buy all my backdrops from eBay vendors. Like anything, make sure you check the seller rating and their eBay store to make sure they are reputable. You may also want to consider a backdrop stand. That will assist in properly hanging your backdrops in almost any location. Questions you need to ask yourself are

1. How many colours do you want?

2. How large do you need (will you be doing large group photos)?

3. How much space do you have to use to set them up?

4. Do you need a backdrop hanger?

Now that you have some of your basic information, you will need to select colors for your backdrops. A nice standard grey, blue and maybe a brown/red base backdrop will usually be enough to get you going. You also need to know the size. 9x6 is a good standard muslin used for portraits however if you can get a good deal, go for 10 x 10 and that way you can have some extra backdrop to use for full body shots and even enough for some small group shots. Backdrops of that size are generally around 0 each however, you can often find great deals on eBay if you are patient.

SETTING UP THE STUDIO

Now that you have the gear, it's time to decide how to set up your studio. Hopefully you have already found yourself some room in your house that you can use as a "studio only" location. If not, you can go "mobile" with most equipment and set up wherever there is room. Ideally you would like to have a room that has a good amount of ceiling space, enough room to set up your subject and light. A room or area 15x15 is a good starting point but you may have some limitations for larger groups. If you are mostly doing your pets, family and other small subjects and groups this should suffice.

If you have the ability to set aside your "stage" and keep it set up, the best thing to do is to set your backdrops up against one wall and your lighting off to the side. Your lighting needs will vary from shot to shot so it is best to just have the lights on their stands set to the lowest point on the light stand. When you know what type of lighting you are going to need, you pull your lights as needed and set them up (with a soft box, umbrella...).

IN SHORT

Studio shooting can be a lot of fun. It makes for really great home done family portraits and can even make you a couple dollars. Once you start feeling comfortable taking portraits, why not start doing some friends portraits? After some practice, some study and some experience with various portrait styles; you will start to see some great results and will be the envy of all your friends!


Photo Tips For Setting Up a Home Photography Studio


Photography Tips



Photography Tips

Photo Tips For Setting Up a Home Photography Studio



Photo Tips For Setting Up a Home Photography Studio
Photo Tips For Setting Up a Home Photography Studio



Photography Tips